Olympus om

It's the first in the E-M5 line to offer on-sensor phase detect autofocus, which includes both face and eye detection modes. The camera also gets a new image stabilization system, an updated EVF and some small ergonomic improvements. It will also be available kitted with the weather-sealed Olympus mm F Here's what else is new and how it stacks up against its peers.

Read more. While the E-M5 III comes with an autofocus system that shares its spec with higher-end models, we were a bit disappointed with its performance.

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With incredible stabilization, a mic input, an articulating touchscreen and good quality files, the E-M5 III is a good candidate for video shooting. We find the E-M5 III to be a fantastic companion for travel and general photography, producing excellent images under a wide range of scenarios.

Also, what's the difference between the anti-shake performance of Panasonic and Olympus? At that time, I had deemed it to be too expensive in an environment populated by cameras with larger sensors. Buy now or wait 'til it drops. Yes, the images of failure of the tripod mount by customer who was using the Peak Design Clip put me off. The clip is a widely used accessory and while I do not use it, I wouldn't think twice about the durability of the camera body and tripod mount if I did.

The thread you refer to includes some interesting photos and member insight regarding the failure and its possible relationship to the camera's design. Note--other than the OP, none of the posters had actually examined the camera. The theories were based on the OP's images of one damaged camera and a schematic marketing photo from Olympus. I am not sure the term "epic design failure" as you assert in your comment can be supported on the basis of this limited information.

We need more information. Let's see how Olympus responds to this. For me personally, a solid tripod mount is a given and not a selling point for a camera. It isn't there for show. For me this failure is epic. I feel the same way you do.When used in a traditional manner, where you manually keep an AF point or zone over your subject, it tends to perform well. And an updated face and eye detect algorithm makes it easy to capture sharp images of fellow humans without much trouble. But subject tracking performance lags behind the competition.

The E-M1 III uses the same AF system as its predecessor, with on-sensor phase detect points, but with improved face and eye detection. But you can now assign face detection to be toggled on and off with a custom button. Our standard continuous AF test comes in two parts: the first tests the camera's ability to assess and predict the distance to an approaching subject, the second uses the camera's subject tracking mode, in which the camera also needs to recognize the subject and decide which AF point to use, to follow a subject approaching in an unpredictable manner.

A single, central AF point was used, along with the 10 fps Continuous L drive setting focus is locked in the higher-speed Cont H modeusing the mechanical shutter you can expect similar results with e-shutter in Continuous L at 18 fps.

We used the m. Zuiko mm F2. However, looking more closely we found the camera would continue to drop out of focus. The camera appears to take around 20 shots approx 2 seconds to fully recognize and respond to the behavior of the target. Even shooting sequences with the bike already moving at a steady speed to rule-out acceleration as the causethere continued to be a period during which the camera hunts. In every run there would be some shots in which the camera drove the focus further away, which suggests it was struggling to understand the behavior of the approaching subject.

However, these shots tend not to be too severely misfocused, so need not be cause for too much concern. Subject tracking was notably less successful.

With default settings the camera would almost immediately ignore the subject and instead revert to its original position. It would then briefly re-focus when the subject crossed under the AF point, only to then refocus to the background. Changing the C-AF Sensitivity to 2 the most responsive to unpredictable movement and giving the camera a different colored target to follow produced much better results but only when both factors were combined neither the more distinct target nor the increased sensitivity worked in isolation.

Based on these results, we would not advise using the AF Tracking mode for anything more than setting the focus point before carefully recomposing: it cannot be relied upon for moving subjects. Olympus was the first brand to introduce eye detection AF and its latest implementation, with phase detection, appears to work well.

Guide to Classic Olympus OM Zuiko lenses on film and Sony Full Frame

It's quick at detecting faces and eyes and, in our experience, maintains focus on them well. It will continue to recognize a face even in profile. However, there is no system to switch to non-face tracking if your subject turns away completely or briefly can't be recognized as a face. In that situation, there's a risk of the camera refocusing on other faces in the scene.

In our test the camera performed very well but the results appear to be somewhat lens dependent. The camera keeps the lens aperture wide open when focusing, which means the focus performance in low light depends on the maximum aperture of the lens.

We found the camera could recognize a face when using an F2. With an F1. Overall, the best results can be had by exploiting the camera's fast EVF and trying to pan to keep a fixed AF point or zone over your subject.

olympus om

Despite advancements in AF tracking technology across the industry, this is still the way that some pro sports photographers continue to work.

Even then, and with the camera set to respond to the subject's movement, we'd still expect a few misfocused shots in the middle of most bursts. For birding, where a subject may be static in a tree, or flying perpendicular to the camera and hence not moving much in depththe camera can perform well.

However, we did occasionally encounter the hunting behavior, especially if birds flew in front of something more complex than open sky. How do they say it the auto-tracking is poor? It tells you this in the manual.The nucleus of this system is the brilliantly conceived camera body of remarkably compact design, yet with possibly the best viewfinder in any 35mm SLR camera.

The first model introduced was the all-mechanical M-1, soon renamed OM-1, with a full aperture TTL CdS exposure meter and a wide bayonet lens-mount, gradually complemented by several quite sophisticated models.

The system is also associated with one of the finest ranges of optics ever made available, the OM-System Zuiko lensesand a generous selection of accessories. The very first model was presented at Photokina in Cologne in [2] and was called the Olympus M Thirteen years earlier, the release of the Nikon F had done much to make the 35mm SLR the standard choice for professionals and higher-spending amateurs who would previously have used Leica and other rangefindersbut it had driven the market towards heavy and bulky cameras.

The Olympus M-1 changed this and with it began a reduction of size, weight and noise of the 35mm SLRs. It was designed by a team led by Maitani Yoshihisa [1]who had already created the Olympus Pen and Pen F cameras, noted for their compactness. Very soon a complaint from Leica forced Olympus to rename the M-1 to OM-1and apart from the name the two models are identical. Today bodies and lenses with the M name are reputedly uncommon and are sought after by collectors.

A rumour, usually attributed to the Olympus company, says that only 5, bodies were made. It has a very large viewfinder with interchangeable screens but a fixed prism. It also has a through-the-lens exposure meter controlling a needle visible in the viewfinder.

It has a very compact body, whose form was retained in later models. Originally, oldest OM-1 bodies would not accept motor drive. The bottom cover had to be replaced meaning a new serial number and the md switch added to mount a motor or winder.

The entire slow speed governor, along with some brass speed cams had to be replaced. Oldest OM-1 body castings required holes drilled in 2 locations. Newer "old" OM-1 might only require the addition of the md switch and new bottom cover switch calibration required. This new version wears a small plate marked MD on the front.

An OM-2 prototype was displayed in a showcase at the Photokina in Cologne, but none of its features were announced. The exposure sensor also controls the flash exposure; this is called through-the-lens TTL flash automation or otf flash exposure. The OM-2 was the first camera to have these features a Minolta patent licensed to Olympus. The Olympus Quick Auto flashgun was designed for the OM-2, which unfortunately is not compatible with the T series flash units introduced in together with the new OM-1n and OM-2n.

All these models existed in chrome or black. In some markets, it was called OM-2S. Although its name suggests it is a continuation of the OM-2, it has more in common with the OM-4 and is built on the OM-4 body castings.

Due to the governor built into the mirror mechanism which is key to proper functioning of program modecamera firing speed with either Motor Drive 1 or 2 is lowered to about 3. The body is built on an all-new aluminum casting, with a new type of viewfinder including dioptric correction.

With this camera Olympus introduced a new, versatile light-metering system.JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website.

Our OM-D system has all the advanced shooting features that pros demand and beginners love to use in an astoundingly light, compact design. Add your photo for a chance to be featured on our website or in the Olympus User Gallery.

Upload now or post on social with getolympus. Extend the life of your OM-D and have some fun too. Find a full range of accessory port add-ons, flashes, cases and straps. Built to get any shot, anytime, anywhere. From beginner to professional, choose the OM-D that fits you, your creativity, and your aspirations. For travelers and enthusiasts. Simple-to-use touchscreen and built-in Wi-Fi for instant sharing on the go. For enthusiasts and explorers. Compact and weathersealed for capturing sharp shots everywhere.

For aspiring and on-the-go pros. Experience some of our most advanced imaging tech in the newest OM-D. For professionals of all photo genres.

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Have absolute confidence in capturing every shot every time. OM-D lets you enjoy photography instead of feeling weighed down by bulky gear. We get it. Not all photography is created equal.

Choose your favorite subject:. Birds make for challenging subjects.

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Learn more. When it comes to wildlife photography, Olympus Visionary Jay Dickman is king of the jungle. Let Jay help you capture your very best wildlife shots. The best portraits tell a story. And no one tells better stories than Olympus Visionary Tracie Maglosky. It transports you.

Sign Up.They are all nicely engineered and a joy to use. This makes them very tempting options for someone who wants to explore them on a modern full frame camera, or for someone who wants to experiment with film. In this guide Juriaan, Phillip and I will take you through the lenses with comments about how they perform, and whether they make sense adapted to Sony full frame digital cameras.

But many are close and nonetheless extremely good, and others have a look which we sometimes enjoy as an alternative to the near perfection of some recent glass. There are many factors you need to take into account when buying older lenses, all of which are related to the reason you are doing it. You might want to save money, you might be sentimentally attached to an old brand, you might like the unique look some of these optics offer, you might be a collector at heart.

This is a good reason for buying classic glass. But you need to be a bit careful. But they are very expensive, so much so that you are probably better off, if performance is all you care about and you want manual focus, spending a little more for a modern CV or Zeiss lens.

Of course those lenses have other features that you might care about as well. The money saving motivation really applies mostly to less expensive lenses some of which are nonetheless still very sharp. Sometimes there are lenses in a genre for which there is no modern equivalent yet. There are no modern smaller medium tele lenses. If you want a compact tele for occasional use, then an adapted OM might fit the bill.

They are mostly pretty good though when there are finally modern ones they will be better. In this case you will care less about the absolute resolution and more about the rendering, so long as performance is decent. Some people may even prefer the older versions with single coating for artistic flare and so forth. Using older lenses can be kind of an excuse to collect. If you are just using the lens, then a cosmetically fair sample with clean glass will save you a lot of money.

OM lenses when through a number of changes over the years. The earliest change was merely cosmetic: when the M-System became the OM system, because of trademark issues with Leica. But later changes sometimes coincided with changes in the optics and coatings.

Sometimes the optical changes are obvious: the number of elements or groups changes, so it must have been redesigned. Unlike some makers, Olympus never advertised Mk II! The coatings went through at least three eras that we know of. Most lenses of this era were single coated, though some had early multicoating. At some point the silver ring on the front disappears and the lens body is all black.

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It does however mean that any all black lens is newer sample than a silver one. Zuiko for a five element lens, and F. Zuiko for a six element lens and so on. Both are noticeably better than the non-multicoated era for surpassing glare and flare and generally maintaining contrast. The last years of OM produced some extraordinary lenses that were, we think, better than most of the contemporary lenses of their class, and almost as good as the latest modern designs.

Classic zooms are rarely good, though there are a couple of interest in the OM lineup we may discuss later.With Olympus in talks to sell its imaging division to Japan Industrial Partners, the future of the camera line — and the lenses and accessories — is uncertain. The company expects to reach an agreement at the end of September, but until then, the state of Olympus cameras is fraught with rumors and questions. Are the cost savings for the more affordable OM-D camera worth it despite a few snags?

Measuring less than 2 inches deep and less than 3 inches with the kit lens retractedthe mirrorless is the ideal size between a point-and-shoot and most interchangeable lens cameras. Yet the body still holds enough real estate to offer a good selection of physical controls and a much more substantial grip than a slim compact camera.

olympus om

Unfortunately, it lacks the excellent weather sealing of the high-end OM-D cameras. While I prefer slightly larger grips, the shape is easy enough for the index fingers to wrap around at the front, with a nice thumb rest at the back. The body still leaves plenty of room for a 2. Several times, the white balance in the viewfinder was much different than what the actual photo captured. Given that the M IV is a budget camera, the viewfinder, despite its faults, met up with expectations compared to similarly priced cameras.

Dual control wheels adjust shutter speed and aperture, while shortcut buttons on the back open options for adjusting ISO, flash, and burst shooting.

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Settings like autofocus modes and white balance are inside a quick menu. I miss the joystick found on higher-end cameras, which allows you to adjust the focal point in one step — on the E-M10 IV, you tap the shortcut, then move the cursor. That battery door is just barely blocked by a standard-sized tripod plate, which can be a little annoying.

While the battery is rated for shots, I got about shots before it wore down. While I miss the weather sealing, grip, and joystick of its pricier siblings like the E-M1 Mark IIIthe small size means I never had to second-guess whether I really wanted to haul the camera around with me all day.

But, while the algorithms are there, the E-M10 has an entirely different autofocus system that cheapens the experience. To put that even further in perspective, the E-M1X has two processors.

It is accurate and easy to use, but lacks a bit of speed. Autofocus slows down slightly in low light but still seemed to lock on accurately without too much of a delay. Continuous autofocus was OK for a budget camera, getting more shots sharp than not, but still catching a handful of soft-focus images when shooting the fastest action. Eye AF is excellent for portraits and snapshots of people, as it easily picks up eyes and faces.Written by Sandeep Sumal and published on March 24, April 27, The Olympus OM-1 was introduced in and was originally launched as the M-1, which relatively quickly had to be changed to the OM-1 as Leica felt it was too close to their M series.

I say the OM-1 OM-1n to be preciseis my first proper film camera as back in the day, photography was not my thing. So, whilst I had cameras they were generally the standard point and shoot variety. I started film photography, not just for the look of film, but because I felt that getting right back to basics with a film camera would help me learn to take better pictures.

So why did I end up with the OM-1n? My criteria for choosing a camera to start with was as follows:. I did some research on the web yes I typed what film camera to buy in Google and also looked at what cameras are recommended for students. I discounted the Canon as when I handled one in a shop it seemed heavy to me.

Compact and feature-packed: Our Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark III review

I discounted the Pentax for purely superficial reasons i. I discounted the Nikons as the lenses, whilst fantastic, seemed to hold their value more. I was already a fan of the way the Olympus looked and had read about photographers such as Jane Bownwho used an Olympus OM1 for the vast majority of her photography. I love her natural light portraits and thus, the camera was purchased from eBay — with a 50mm lens — and eventually sent away for a CLA.

Now, here is an important point about the OM-1n; the light meter is set to run on a 1. There are a number of options that include the use of zinc-air batteries which are designed for hearing aids. In fact, I used these at first but as they lose voltage over time, the meter can become unreliable.

It is also possible to use a Weincell but I never tried this. However, using the camera regularly, it seems to have done the trick. More importantly, I am learning more and more about how my camera meters, thus getting used to what the meter is telling me and interpreting it. Being manual, the camera is simple to use. Load the film, set your desired ISO and away you go.

When you press the shutter there is a reassuring click and it is quieter than other cameras I have heard. Bringing the camera up to my eye, my hands intuitively fall into the right place: right index finger over the shutter, left-hand on the lens barrel.

Interestingly, the OM-1n is one of only a few 35mm SLRs to have the shutter speed dial around the lens mount!

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The lenses I have are in my opinionsharp and work well through their various apertures. The 50mm at f2. There is a fisheye lens, which is quite sought after but costs a lot! I have also just purchased an original eyecup it can be difficult to see the light meter reading through the viewfinder in bright light. Firstly there are a lot of duds out there. With lenses, it is the standard advice — check for scratches, haze and fungus — but what I have noticed when looking for lenses is that there does seem to be more than usual amount with dust in the inner elements so look carefully.

I have had more than a couple of rolls not loaded properly. More so, I have had a couple of rolls, get stuck mid-roll. This is normally preceded by me noticing that the film rewind lever is sticking out when it should not be. As an aside, when working correctly, the film rewinds smoothly with little effort and you can feel when it has fully wound back into the canister. It is a small, light and beautifully designed camera.


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